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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.